3d printer thermistor problem reddit when i started to print again my thermistor was showing eird To test whether it's the mainboard or the thermistor that's at fault, I swapped the nozzle and bed thermistor connections on the mainboard. Anyway, you can replace it with any E3D V6 compatible thermistor. Anet A8 thermistor Problem more info in comments. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Welcome to the official community of Creality, the world-leading 3D printer brand. I have a deadline in a couple days and I'm now stuck with a broken printer and it's 100% my fault. Upgrade M3 Hex Screw in Fixing Thermistor 100K 3950 Temperature Sensor for Ender 3 V2 Pro CR10 and Other 3D Printer Extruder Hotend (100K 3950) https://a. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, This is the SubReddit for the Creality CR-10/CR-10S 3D Printer. I know I was unable to remove the thermistor core from the hotend, even after heating it up to 240ºC. I tried thermistor table selection 11 for the hotend, and the bed still worked, but The thermistor on the MK3S is a standard thermistor for a E3D V6 hotend. Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. I unplugged the thermistor and it turns out the printer constantly reads 160c with or without the thermistor. I still end up having a problem A few weeks ago I got a thermal runaway message on my modded Ender 3 during a print, and I have not been able to get it working since then! I have tried fixing and replacing Here are the main ways to fix 3D printer temperature fluctuations: 1. So recently my printer has been acting up and not heating properly so I’ve taken it apart and realize that it’s the thermistor that is not working properly after taking it out I’m not sure which With the default marlin flavor (thermistor table 5 for hotend and bed) and this new thermistor, the hotend read 0, while the bed read the appropriate temperature. Anyway, the replacement has worked, well enough. After inquiring about the issue through this subreddit and Prusa's support, I was told that one of the thermistor screws must've loosened and thus have a higher level of heat dissipate, melting part of the cover. The bed always returns a tmperature of about 340 no matter what thermistor I plug into it. I had that problem too on my printer, the problem was that the The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the My high temperature thermistor on my CR-10 has failed. I learned quickly to heat the nozzle (I took it to 280C) in order to avoid leaks; however, I've run into a problem I'm absolutely eating through thermistors. Reading up on 100k thermistors, I found that many of them have a max temperature rating of 260-300c. 9) and I just started getting a strange issue with the thermistor I wasn't getting on the stock firmware, the temperature starts working normally and how you'd expect, and all of a sudden, after doing a select few seemingly unrelated things (preheating, trying to use PID autotune, sometimes even initializing Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Is there something wrong with the new thermistor? I bought the one piece screw-in style 100K 3950 thermistor. Perhaps, it may be the thermistor problem? not measuring the temperature properly. If you get a resistance reading there that is not an open circuit then measure the resistance at the end with the plug that connects to the mainboard. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, This sub is a place to discuss the CR10 Smart Pro to help each other solve problems and learn more about our printer and it's capabilities, settings, modifications, and general troubleshooting. The thermistor also serves as a control device. Show off your prints, From what I've gathered from Prusa community forums and Reddit, thermal errors are often caused by a faulty thermistor, a dirty heaterblock, a clogged nozzle or a firmware bug. One way to fix 3D printer temperature fluctuations is to re-secure the thermistor. They are found in temperature-sensitive areas like the hot end and the heated bed. This is not an official Klipper support channel and poorly moderated so ymmv. Or The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. I have a small problem though. r/3Dprinting A chip A close button A chip A close button For awhile my printer refused to temp and would constantly get thermal runaway, I thought it was the ceramic cartridge, but I took it out, adjusted it and put it back in and it started working, but then a new problem showed up; it can grt up to Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Hi, well i'm new in the 3d printing world so i bought a Anet A8 'cause i think cheaper too is easier to use. You sand the original down and fill in any gaps or holes on the surface, then cast it. Printer & Slicer Filament Material and Brand Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 10 months down the road, my thermistor dies mid print, my machine sucks molten filament into the fans, and the heater goes to full power and lights itself on fire. Once you do that, you can replicate till the mold breaks. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Get the Reddit app Scan this Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. You make the 3d print, then cast it in a silicone mold, then you can make them out of whatever material you want that isnt metal. I ordered a new wire but I won't arrive until the DAY OF my deadline and I wouldn't even know how to install it. note to self, try testing each part when making hardware changes that fucks up your print quality. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, As I searched on the internet, thermistor causes this problem, but I changed my thermistor with a brand new one recently. This is the SubReddit for the Creality CR-10/CR-10S 3D Printer. Also, this problem does not occur every Anyway, the next concern would be the thermistor in the bed. Ok, problem with the printer usually just a wire connection. They are T-D500 thermistors That one doesn’t work either. never found out why, but switching back to the glass capsule thermistor solved the problem. If you ordered a thermistor with the E3D V6, then I would suspect either a short, or a faulty thermistor. si ive had my ender 3 pro for a little less than a year noẇand ive done some upgrades. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Here's how I fixed it. Also, when I turn off the printer (Pi still on), the thermistor immediately drops to 89°C and then clicks How Do You Replace & Attach a Thermistor to a 3D Printer? Replacing the Thermistor on Your Hot End; Replacing the Thermistor on Your Print Bed; How Do You Check the Resistance of a Temperature Sensor? How I cannot seem to figure out the proper values for the thermistors in my 3D printer. I don't know how long I have been having this problem but I am happy I found out this way. 1. How Is A Thermistor Used In 3D Printers? Thermistors in 3D printers serve as temperature sensing devices. My thought is that I could check the board used in the printer, see what other printers use the same board and use that printer's thermistor. In these areas, they monitor the temperature and relay the data back to the micro-controller. Please just keep all posts clean so that even children can use this site with their Aquila 3d printers. Message and mods before posting any sales links/affiliate links. Please be friendly and helpful. (Then we can focus on a specific axis) The thermistor may not be the problem. Luckily I was home at the time and I never leave anything flammable near my printer. I connect the wire using my own two hand because All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Would it make sense that the thermistor reads a slightly wrong temp when the wire or crimp is faulty? In my experience those readings are obvious because temperatures are - 30 instead of 250. The model features overhangs, curved surfaces, text and so on. I also decided to add the plugin fix for my printer under octopi. I have recently built a hypercube and entered the world of 3d printers. We are in no way affiliated with Creality, we're just a friendly community of 3D printing enthusiasts who own this specific model of printer. Hi there! So long story short, earlier last month I had noticed that during some prints, part of my thermistor cover slowly started to melt. A thermistor is the My bbq thermometer reads 148°C at the heater block when the thermistor reads 115°C. The heater plug requires crimping because solder You could plug the hot end thermistor into the bed thermistor socket (which we know is working). I've changed how tight my zip ties are, location of velcro wire wraps, getting it seated properly. Eventually I will have one for each board and average the total, but I only have one on hand right now. Follow our rules and you can get tremendous support and suggestions from our community. As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. Marlin 2. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. Yes- I will have (at least) one thermistor placed under the bed. Question/Need help Hi there! I'm having an issue with my mk2 All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Does this sound like a problem with the thermistor or should I replace the whole hot end? Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Or My problem: The thermistor tells me the hotend is a certain tempature when it obviously isnt, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Re-secure Thermistor and Check the Wiring. The wires for the thermistor are the thinner pair. However, when swapped, both temperatures read correctly (!?). co/d/1FbKFYp Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Or Thermistor Trouble . If the problem is now moved to the hotend that will rule out your motherboard. All three of them. If the displayed value doesn't change regardless of whether the thermistor is connected correctly, or is unplugged, or a jumper link is plugged into the port instead, that's the problem. So that argument does not fit. You can solder the thermistor wires back together. The bed thermistor reads between 300 and 350 each time I turn it on, I know it is not the thermistor or wiring because when I switch the thermistor wires, the bed reads properly from the nozzle temp display and the and the hotend thermistor gives the same reading for bed temp. tl/dr: a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Providing that you get consistent readings from your 3D printer's temperature sensors that will allow you to get good prints, it doesn't matter if they are slightly off. The thermistor just screws into the head. The thermistor is basically just a restistor which changes it's value according to temperature. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. I can try measuring the voltage across the pins and see what that gives me. If it still reads -15, then you have a faulty thermistor/cable. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, It could be a thermistor problem but it’s only a month old. till now, im still not sure about what caused my print becone so rough. By this point it's also become a meme. I also checked the voltage across the pins in the port, and found 2. When I got mine the issue was not well documented and I stumbled upon it by accident (years after the fact). ive added the dual z axis and ive also upgrades the extuder with an all metal design. Really easy to do. a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I took out the thermistor on the printing head and clean it up with Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 3V-tolerant, so if a thermistor wire is ever shorted to a heater wire or a fan wire it will be damaged by the 24V. Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Great Prints? Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. Also, I wouldn't trust a meat thermometer to provide accurate readings. So I have access to this printer (not from a major manufacturer) and it suddenly started having a problem where at around 10 minutes into the print, according to the temperature sensor on the screen, the extruder stops being heated and slowly goes from 215ºC to under 170ºC, which causes it to stop extruding. 3D Printers almost always have a thermistor and some sort of cycled 24V Ceramic Heater Thermistor with 1pc Fixing Clip Compatible with BB X1 Carbon X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer Hotend (Heater thermistor The thermistor will pull right out of the heat block no problem Hotend Kit 24V Ceramic I have been getting thermal runaway errors on my ender 5 plus. The thermistor is reading a wrong temp of 280c consistently(279c without it plugged in), and also I set the hotend temp max to 450c yet the printer still only lets me go to 260? Not an expert with this and I did try googling it. i went ofn vacation for 4 days and when i came back i was wrecked so i didnt do any 3d printing for another 2-3 days. 0 Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. There are various thermistors available online but, I don't see any that mention compatibility with the Neptune 3. Or a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. The original thermistor in my E3D V6 failed pretty quickly, which was a bit of a disappointment, since I only bought it because I was fed up with replacing glass bead thermistors. Better than it would just jammed in there and held by a screw. Thermistors are not accurate devices, and those used in 3D printers will be low-tolerance and uncalibrated. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, Turn on printer with no thermistor - errors Turn on printer with thermistor - reports proper temp for 20 minutes - starts giving bad values(~190c) - turn off printer and unplug thermistor - restart printer - reads bad values even with no thermistor attached. Well i finally get the printer on and running, then i bought a bowden a copy of a e3d v6 i think, print the new support for the feeder motor and the support for the bowden itself, but when i connect and turn it on, the printer show me (for a moment) 373°C for the hotend, and then it Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Came across this stud thermistor on Amazon and was hoping to see if anyone had Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Have fun in the 3D printing world with Creality! When I was trying to remove the plastic, I accidentally cut the thermistor wire since it was encased in plastic. Unplug it and inspect the plug and make sure the metal connections on the plug are pushed in all the way. I know it says "Prusa-specific" but the only difference is the crimped end of the cable for the Prusa version has the clip for the board connection and the regular E3D one doesn't clip. Measure the resistance of the thermistor using the solder pads (the two inner pads) on the heat bed. Its always good to run an autotune when you change thermistors because the new one can be off a bit due to differences in the magical pterodactyl that fly along the wire. In the firmware it says that it is a 100k thermistor (the stock hotend also uses a 100k thermistor). 5 volts instead of the 5v of the other three ports. Or super weird thermistor problem 🤔 . Hi. The ADC input is only 3. Show off your prints, or ask a question. The screw in thermistor was reading low for some reason. It really seems stuck in there For now I just disconnected and reconnected all Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Printer & Slicer Filament Material and Brand Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed Posted by u/CrumbOSRS - 3 votes and 2 comments This is my first 3D-printer and as such was clueless as to how to properly tighten a nozzle into a heatbreak. Turning off the printer while cleaning prevents you from shorting anything out. The hotend thermistor reads 0 degrees (or Negative molds. I've been trying to get the heated bed on my printer working, but there is a problem with thermistor port 2 on my Rambo. Skip to main content. /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Have fun in the 3D printing world with Creality!. I disassembled the hotend more than once. - - - If you are new here, PLEASE see the sticky post - It has a lot of very helpful information to help you get started 3d printing with your Voxelab Aquila. (The logic being: if now the "bed" shows 0 degrees then the thermistor is broken, but if the "nozzle" still shows 0 then the mainboard is broken). Another important note is that the firmware has the max temp at 125c. and ive been printing great. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, First try reseating the Posted by u/cmgreyhounds - 1 vote and no comments Looking into getting a new thermistor as I’ve been experiencing the dreaded thermal run away and can’t print anything without the print being halted. What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer? When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly? Does anything cause the behavior to change? If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. Any ideas what I could try to trouble shoot this other than getting a new thermistor, which I have ordered already? Layer shifts, failing motors and bad luck, let's see your weirdest and most cursed Benchies! Purposely odd designs and other cursed 3D-prints are allowed. I have spent a few hours researching, and found I need a Beta Value and an R value. I'm truly screwed. And only because you don’t have the problem does not mean it does not exist. Its either a faulty thermistor or the cable which connects it to the mainboard has loose contact. I pulled OctoPrint up and the bed temp graph was filled with impossible temperature I don't get it. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Or Is it safe to switch thermistor type? I am upgrading my 3d printer with an v6 hotend kit, and I received a cartridge type thermistor. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. We DO NOT require Benchy posts!! LOL Get the Reddit app Scan this a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Today I finally installed a bootloader and an up-to-date version of marlin (v1. A Benchy is a boat used for benchmarking and testing your 3D-printer. When I run octoprint The temperature of the hot end is measured correctly, but the Printer continues to heat the hot end after it reaches the set temperature. Then you can swap the bed thermistor with the hotend, as in just swap where they are plugged in and turn on the printer, see if now the hotend reads -15. Welcome to share your unique models, printing tips & ask for help. But, next time, I'd like to have a replacement thermistor on hand to minimize down time. Interesting problem with thermistors in marlin Also, a short from the thermistor to the block shouldn't instantly damage the printer, only a short from the 12V of the hotend to the printer will do that (which requires both the thermistor and the 12V line to touch the heaterblock simultaneously). Ender 3 Thermistor Problem . Recently pulled my v1 mp select mini out of storage and a bit of an intriguing problem. Full rules are in the "Community Rules" link at the top of the sub. Thermistors are cheap and if you go to Ametherm website, they offer free samples. Yes a 3d printer is complex and the prusa printers are far from perfect. If it gives a sensible reading, then you may have plugged the thermistor into the I was printing the other day and my printer kept shutting down with MAX TEMP and MIN TEMP errors. The thermistor is potted and the brass conducts the heat pretty well. Printer & Slicer Filament Material and Brand Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. tark zqx ipmen hgl yethw ngwygylo bvtk zlumhs zexnqh fllq